Patagonia Paradox: The Ethics of Reselling
- Synergy Magazine
- Mar 14
- 3 min read
By Niamh Nugent | Graphics by Gigi Claus |
Patagonia brand founder, Yvon Chouinardn, is perhaps just another reseller benefiting from the global second-hand market and up-charging consumers for end-of-life clothing. The brand owner created the Common Threads Initiative in 2017 to promote sustainable practices brand-wide. Patagonia-specific secondhand apparel and accessories are featured on their business partner ebay's site and Patagonia’s “Worn Wear” section on their own site. Along with reselling clothes, the brand created the Common Threads Initiative to promote more sustainable consumption. Patagonia, through this marketing, encourages consumers to find more sustainable ways of consumption even suggesting that you not buy their clothes at all.
Common Threads Initiative
“Reduce
WE make useful gear that lasts a long time
YOU don’t buy what you don’t need
Repair
WE help you repair your Patagonia gear
YOU pledge to fix what’s broken
Reuse
WE help find a home for Patagonia gear you no longer need YOU sell or pass it on*
Recycle
WE will take back your Patagonia gear that is worn out
YOU pledge to keep your stuff out of the landfill and incinerator”
The similarities between Yvon Chouinardn and the average Depop reseller ironically creates this idea of the “Patagonia Paradox,” emulating how ethical consumption is rare under capitalism. As a large corporation, Patagonia is making profit from clothes beyond their traditional end-life. While priced lower than retail, second-hand Patagonia is far more expensive on their resale platform than the average thrift store. Similar to Depop reselling, up-charging for clothes that would have otherwise ended up in the landfill creates a juxtaposition between attempts of sustainable and ethical consumption.
Reselling ultimately is a solution to reducing textile waste in landfills and pollution from new clothing production as thrifting reduces carbon emissions by 16.3 million tonnes; which is equivalent to 32.6 billion pounds of clothes. However, in recent years, demand for second hand clothing has increased. Reselling has led to average thrift stores, like Goodwill, to increase their prices exponentially. “The upper end of the 2020 price range is often 3 times as much as the 2010 base price” (see image below).
Inflation has also influenced the rise in prices as the inflation rate is 2.9% yearly in the United States. Reselling corporations, like Goodwill, limit accessibility to affordable clothing by raising prices accordingly. Consequently, private resellers such as vintage sellers raise their own prices to make a profit and receive compensation for processing energy.
The work of curating a quality second hand shop takes time and effort and vintage curators alike should be compensated as a job. However, raising prices with curated reselling limits the accessibility of quality second-hand clothing. Not all resellers abuse the influx of sustainable shopping; however, it isn’t rare to see a $5 thrifted shirt up-charged for $50+ on Depop. Reselling already worn items creates a circular product life but raises a question about the ethics of sustainable clothing.
Practicing sustainable consumption by thrifting and shopping local second-hand shops better supports the circular economy and reduces personal carbon footprints. “Buying smart and buying less” is the best attempt consumers can make at ethical consumption. As seen with Patagonia, personal consumption trends influence larger markets and incentivize businesses to implement more sustainable practices. But as the market for sustainable products increases, corporations can take advantage of marketing and product transparency. Through greenwashing, companies create a facade of ethical and sustainable practices relating to a brand or product then fail to uphold those values. Knowing about the product you’re buying and who you’re buying it from prevents companies from taking advantage of you and creates opportunities for conscious consumption.
Reselling creates possibilities for sustainable sectors of business and commodifies the circular economy. As reselling practices become more normalized, the ethics of secondhand consumption should also be evaluated. Overconsumption and gentrification can affect secondhand fashion business as much as retail. The shift to sustainability takes thoughtfulness from both corporations and consumers alike. Corporations willing to make sustainable changes have to be open to criticism in order to effectively benefit people and the planet. Consumers can plan out purchases to improve financial literacy and sustainable initiatives, but practices like greenwashing and reselling make it hard for people to easily acquire sustainable products and be confident in their credibility. Any stride to reduce personal carbon footprint is effective to aiding the climate crisis and companies should follow suit in creating a more sustainable economy.
Comments